Our class on compost was very informative today – Glen Andresen from Metro’s Natural Gardening program, was here to talk about how to make your own compost, and how to use it. The primary benefits of compost are:
- improves the quality of clay or sandy soil
- reduces water and fertilizer needs
- retains moisture in the soil
- increases aeration – which is essential for beneficial microbes
- increases heat absorption
- decreases potential erosion problems
- helps prevent soil compaction
Successful composting:
- Ideally, try for a ratio of one part green stuff (fresh grass clippings, green leaves, hedge trimmings, vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds, egg shells, or horse, cow, or poultry manures) to two parts brown stuff ( woody prunings, dried leaves and twigs, straw, wood chips, old potting soil, shredded newspaper, pine needles, nut shells)
- To speed things up, chop it up. The more surface area there is, the easier time the microorganisms have eating it up. Use a chipper/shredder on woody stuff, if possible; run the lawn mower over trimmings or dry leaves to break up.
- Size matters - in order to trap heat in the middle, an ideal size for your compost pile or bin is 3 foot by 3 foot by 3 foot. Any size will work, of course, but it might take a little longer.
- The pile needs air and water - these are living organisms in your pile, so make sure they have fresh air occasionally (turn the pile, or use a tool to bring stuff up from the bottom and churn it around) and a bit of water. It should feel damp but not wet. Pounding rain and scorching heat can really affect your pile, so monitor it for moisture, and cover it or sprinkle it if needed.
- Not everything is compost-pile worthy – do not put these into your compost bin: meat or fish parts; dairy products; bread or grain; grease or cooking oil; diseased plants; weeds with seed heads; invasive weeds such as morning glory; pet wastes.
I hadn’t thought about this before, but Gle says compost has a shelf life. Since it is so full of live microorganisms, you should not let it sit around once it is done. It should be spread around your garden – just a small top-dressing around fruit trees, berries, vegetable beds, or ornamentals will do them great good. It is also a great amendment to your lawn, feeding it slowly over time.
So, no excuses now – get composting!

THE SOIL, and there is no finer soil amendment than compost. If you have a corner where you can put a compost bin, or create a compost structure of your own, believe me, you won’t regret it. Glen (from Metro’s Natural Gardening program) will share all you’ll need to know to make your own compost, and he should know: his home garden is quite remarkable – full of edibles of every type as well as compost bins in varying levels of readiness.
an Island to pick one up, you can get them here. This is the year to adopt some good habits, both for ourselves and for the planet!
We had a great class here this morning lead by Carl Grimm, Natural Gardening Specialist at Metro – he had terrific advice about gardening in a natural, sustainable way, working WITH nature rather than trying to coerce it to do our bidding. He had suggestions for ways to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and had concrete reasons why we should care which course we chose. We have leftover brochures from Metro if you are interested in these topics – feel free to ask for one the next time you are here.
Landscaping With Edible Ornamentals